Paris – Day 4 - Montmarte and Cimetiere du Pere Lachaise

On the morning of day 4 we headed via metro to the Montmarte area of Paris. As we exited the metro station we and the other riders were assailed by aggressive sellers of contraband cigarettes. We were still inside a gated area and the sellers were reaching between the bars calling out and hawking their wares. Not sure why this is a thing?!   Montmarte is a large hill in the northern part of Paris and affords beautiful views of the city. One thing this area is known for is the Basilica of Sacre Coeur.  From the lower street in front of the Basiica you can walk up 222 steps or take a funicular. Dennis, being a fan of funiculars, took that route. Maureen took the stairs where she encountered another common Parisian scam.

This from Fodor’s Travel:

Authorities have acknowledged a huge increase in a scam carried out by Romanian gypsies in Paris, this one based on requests for money for so-called deaf/mute girls.

The scam is straightforward. A young girl approaches the mark (usually a tourist) with a piece of paper and a pen, pretending to be deaf. The paper names a couple of charities, both real and fake, and bears the signatures of a few previous marks. The current mark is asked for money, and if he's naïve enough, he gives it. In some cases, the paper and request for money serve as a distraction for stealing a wallet or purse.

None of the girls is actually deaf. They are all Romanian gypsies. They are under 18, making it difficult to prosecute them. Their leader is nowhere to be found, so he cannot be arrested and prosecuted, even though the penalties for compelling children to beg are very severe (one sentence a few years ago was a 30-year prison term).

She did not fall for it. The Basilica itself is quite dramatic and a climb up to the dome yielded the best views over the city.  We had worked up quite an appetite after all that climbing.  We found a lovely little restaurant, Le Poulbot, in the area around the Basilica where Dennis reports that he had the best duck confit that he has ever tasted.

Inside the basilica. A mass was being held.

View from the dome looking toward the Eiffel Tower.

The next item on our agenda for that day was a trip through the Cimetiere du Pere Lachaise, final resting place of several notable people. The weather was starting to turn on us but we were not deterred; we had rain jackets and umbrellas. What better conditions for visiting a cemetery. 

We had downloaded a Rick Steves guide which faithfully directed us through the visit. The persons whose graves we saw included: Oscar Wilde, Gertrude Stein, Edith Piaf, Jim Morrison, Colette, and Frederic Chopin. There are also a few dedicated moments including for: foreign soldiers who died for France during WWII; victims of concentration and extermination camps; victims of Air France Flight 447; Rwanda genocide.  Rain came down pretty heavily during part of our cemetery tour; seemed appropriate to the setting.

Oscar Wilde's tomb. Guess they had a problem with vandals.

A memorial to the holocaust.

Gertrud Stein's gravesite.

Edith Plaf's burial site.

Frederick Chopin's grave. He was not buried here initially, but somehow the owners of the cemetery got permission to move the remains so that the cemetery would become more well known. Guess it worked.

The Haussmann tomb. Georges Eugene Haussmann led the effort to modernize the city's street layout in the 1850's under Napoleon III. 

And last, but not least, here lies Jim Morrison.

So this happened…

 As part of living here in Spain we have established relationships with new doctors.

Dennis saw his GP last June and after going through his family history, she ordered blood tests. Due to his family history, she ordered a test for lipoprotein a, a genetic marker for people who have a predisposition for heart disease.

The test showed a very high level of lipoprotein a and a mildly elevated LDL (bad cholesterol). Based on this, she recommended that he see a cardiologist.

A consultation was scheduled and after the preliminary questions about family history and a review of the blood tests he did an ultrasound scan of the heart and neck. He didn’t find anything concerning but wanted to follow up with a stress test and a 24-hour heart rhythm and blood pressure monitoring.

Towards the end of the stress test some irregularity of the heart rhythm was noted and the cardiologist arranged for a contrast CT angiogram of the coronary arteries.

The CT scan was scheduled in Torrevieja (about 35 miles but an hour’s bus ride south of Alicante) and was completed in late January. The results indicated that there was a narrowing of some of the arteries with the worst being the left anterior descending artery with a 70-99% blockage. Other narrowings were lesser and not of as much concern.

The heart rhythm/blood pressure monitoring showed nothing unusual.

Based on this the cardiologist referred Dennis for a coronary artery catheterization with likely angioplasty and stenting (again in Torrevieja).

Now comes the fun part. As Dennis’ condition was considered hereditary (remember the lipoprotein a test?) insurance would not cover the procedure. So, we had to pay out of pocket.

Upon learning this, we decided we would charge the bulk of it on credit cards and pay the remainder out of the money we have on hand here in Spain. [In a completely separate issue (when it rains it pours) we had been blocked by our US bank from making money transfers unless we physically came into an office in the US and verified our identity (impossible!). As a result we had recently opened a new online checking account with a different bank but it was not yet fully funded]. We contacted the credit card companies to make sure there would not be any problems with the charges and were assured that they should go through. Then we would simply pay them off from the “blocked” account (only money transfers are blocked, not payments).

As the procedure was scheduled for 7:30 am on a Tuesday (which we found out on the previous Friday), we travelled down to Torrevieja on Monday and went to the hospital to pay for the procedure.

Yes, that’s right, they have you pay prior to the procedure. And they give you a fixed sum somehow without really knowing if there will be any additional expenses.

Our first partial payment was from our bank here in Spain and that went through smoothly. Then we tried the credit card.

Denied.

We tried a different credit card.

Denied.

We tried using our US bank debit card and that worked, but due to daily limits, we could pay only another small portion.

We called one of the credit card companies (Capital One), to see what was going on. They told us that there had not been any charge denied and did not see any activity from the hospital. They insisted that the problem was on the hospital’s end.

We called the other credit card company (CitiBank), and their bot told us the same; no charges denied.

Back to the cashier. They tried the cards again. Denied. Not the kind of stress that Dennis needed at this point. We finally ended up signing an agreement to pay within the next 15 days, but they seemed anxious about that and wanted us to pay as soon as possible.

After leaving the hospital for the night we checked into our hotel and contacted our financial advisor to explain the situation. She is an absolute superstar and had the necessary funds in our new US checking account the next day.

Tuesday morning, we arrived for check-in. Again, they seemed very concerned about us paying as soon as possible. We were taken to a room for Dennis to change into a hospital gown and he was then brought down to the operating room.

The procedure went very well, and the doctor was excellent (and spoke English). After inserting the catheter and injecting the dye he looked at the heart from multiple angles and determined that the blockage was 95% (!). He recommended inserting a stent and Dennis readily agreed.

The before and after images showed much better blood flow after the stent.

Off to the ICU where Dennis was hooked up to monitors and an IV. He had to fast prior to the procedure and was starving but they had to wait a while before he could get food. So, he spent a boring day and night in bed.

The next day they said they could move Dennis to a regular room where he would need to spend one more night. Another boring day, but at least he wasn’t hooked up to the monitor or the IV. And he could walk about in the room.

The next day, after receiving prescriptions for the new meds he needs to take, he was sprung. We took a taxi to the bus station and then boarded the bus back to Alicante.

Even though there was a light rain, Dennis wanted to walk from the bus station to the tram station (about 15 minutes) after being cooped up for two days. So that we did!

Being home felt so good. Hope we don’t have to endure something like that again for a long while. Dennis was simply advised to take it easy for a couple of weeks, and then go about his normal routine with no restrictions.

That said, Dennis showed no symptoms of the heart condition. While we were in Paris in November, we were quite active and climbed the stairs up to the top of the Arc de Triomphe and the bell tower of the Montmartre cathedral. Just goes to show you never know.

Salud.

Paris - Day 3 - Versailles

Statue of Louis XIV in front of the Palace

Long day ahead of us today. Making the trip to Versailles and had pre-booked entry tickets for 9:30 am.

We got up early and headed out to the train station for the 30 minute trip to the city of Versailles. Once we arrived we stopped at a patisserie for pastry and coffee. 

Once fortified with coffee we got our bearings and headed toward the huge estate of Versailles.

The golden gate in front of the Palace

Inside the main courtyard.

Versailles, for those who may not know, was the Royal Palace which had grown out from the site of a relatively modest hunting lodge. Louis XIII started the transformation in 1631 and the Palace grew progressively through the reigns of Louis XIV, Louis XV and Louis XVI.

The Palace was largely spared during the French Revolution and upon the accession of Louis-Philippe to the throne the Palace was transformed into a museum in 1833.

The estate covers more than 800 hectares (about 1,975 acres. For comparison, Central Park in New York City is  834 acres) and attracts an astounding 10 to 15 million visitors each year.

The chapel.

One of the galleries.

Painting depicting the surrender after the Battle of Yorktown during the American Revolutionary War with the Continental Army and George Washington aided by the Marquis de Lafayette and French army troops.

Another of the galleries.

Touring the building and estate was an incredible experience. The grandeur and beauty of the building and grounds was quite impressive. We spent the better part of the day there, trying to see as much as we could.

A view of the grounds at the rear of the Palace.

Who dat?

In addition to Versailles, we also visited The Grand Trianon, The Petit Trianon (though nothing petite about it) and the Queen’s Hamlet. The Petit Trianon was a gift from Louis XIV to Marie Antoinette. These palaces were built as refuges from the courtly etiquette of the main palace (i.e. someplace they could let their hair down so to speak).

The grounds around the Trianons also held some interesting things such as...

The Temple of Love

A grotto.

This really gnarly Catalpa tree from the U.S.

And this equally gnarly Juniper tree.  Both survived a torrential storm in 1999.

After a full day, we made our way back to Paris for dinner and a well-deserved night of rest.

Salud